Waking up in Utah is unlike waking up anywhere else. After a restless night, thanks to some overly strong iced tea, the anticipation for the day ahead was palpable. Even a slightly expired sleep aid couldn’t fully quiet the mind, buzzing with the excitement of exploration. But the promise of a new day, especially in a place as unique as Utah, is always enough to draw you from under the covers.
Breakfast was the predictable chain hotel fare, but sometimes predictability is comforting on the road. Fueling up for a day of adventure is the priority, and the standard buffet did its job admirably. However, it wasn’t the breakfast that truly awakened the senses, it was stepping outside and breathing in the Utah air.
There’s a distinct aroma here, something that subtly grabs your attention. It’s reminiscent of that fresh, earthy scent after a summer rain back east, but with a unique twist. This is the smell of Utah soil, a fragrance that’s both grounding and invigorating. It’s not unpleasant, quite the opposite; it’s the very essence of this landscape, the perfume of the Earth itself. This subtle scent, almost like learning to smell ice cream in the desert air, is the first hint of the sensory journey Utah offers.
Today’s agenda is relaxed, allowing us to savor every moment. Bryce Canyon National Park is a mere 20-minute drive away, and there’s no rush to conquer it all at once. This journey is about slow travel, about truly absorbing the atmosphere, much like learning to fully appreciate the nuanced scent of ice cream – it takes time and attention.
Before heading to the iconic landscapes, a quick detour to Joe’s Main Street Market in Panguitch is in order. This non-chain grocery gem deserves a shout-out for its unexpected finds. Imagine discovering Mochi ice cream, that delightful Japanese treat, in the frozen aisle of a small-town Utah market. It feels wonderfully out of place, a sweet surprise in the heart of the American West, and a reminder that delightful discoveries, like learning where to smell ice cream in unexpected places, are always around the corner.
Bryce Canyon’s Sensory Symphony
Five and a half hours immersed in the breathtaking beauty of Bryce Canyon – time well spent. The “America the Beautiful” Annual National Park Pass continues to prove its worth, a gateway to countless natural wonders. The initial investment of $80 for a year unlocks experiences far beyond its price tag, saving money and opening doors to unforgettable adventures across the National Park system.
Our exploration of Bryce Canyon began at Sunrise Point, descending into the canyon towards Queen’s Garden before ascending back to Sunset Point. This 2.9-mile loop, though not excessively long, took two hours to navigate, thanks to the dramatic elevation changes. Hydration was key, with two 16-ounce bottles of water essential to keep energy levels up. Even with the physical exertion, the stunning scenery and invigorating air kept spirits high, and not a single complaint was heard.
Amidst the awe-inspiring vistas, a chance encounter with an 11-year-old from Durham, North Carolina sparked a thought-provoking conversation. While the young hiker displayed an impressive intellect, a comment about “foreigners” and “America for Americans” presented an opportunity for gentle correction. Sharing the idea that borders are artificial constructs and questioning how he would feel if travel was restricted to him seemed to resonate. His simple “you’re right” offered a glimmer of hope, suggesting a seed of empathy might have been planted.
Lunch in the canyon was a simple affair – beef jerky, trail mix, and cookies – fuel for the body and soul amidst nature’s grandeur. As clouds gathered and the rumble of distant thunderstorms echoed, we sought refuge in the shuttle bus shelter. Consulting the Bryce Canyon Park map, we decided to drive the 18-mile scenic route to Rainbow Point, stopping at numerous viewpoints along the way, each offering unique photographic opportunities and moments of pure wonder.
By late afternoon, we were back at the hotel, a haven of tranquility. While one family member connected with friends via FaceTime, and another delved into project management studies, I dedicated time to writing, reflecting on the day’s experiences and the subtle sensory delights, like the imagined sweetness of “smelling ice cream” in the canyon air.
Dinner plans were dictated by Sunday closures in Panguitch, leading us to The Flying M Restaurant. Yelp reviews suggested it was a decent option, and the prospect of avoiding Subway was certainly appealing.
Diner Delights and Desert Dreams
The Flying M Restaurant proved to be a solid choice. Service was prompt, and the diner fare exceeded expectations. Good service deserves recognition, and a 30% tip felt appropriate, reflecting a belief in rewarding hard work and advocating for a living wage. The idea of “paying it forward” seemed fitting, a small gesture to contribute to a better world.
Postcards mailed at the Panguitch Post Office and a quiet return to the hotel marked the evening. Tomorrow, the journey continues towards Canyonlands and Arches National Parks, with Moab as the next destination. The anticipation of more sensory experiences, more opportunities to “smell ice cream” in the desert, is already building.
A restful night’s sleep prepared us for the road ahead, though a slight headache upon waking was quickly addressed with hydration. Breakfast was followed by check-out and the start of the four-hour drive to Canyonlands.
Canyonlands Revisited: Echoes of the Past, Visions of the Present
A brief inquiry at the front desk about an Indian community in Panguitch revealed a surprising detail – only three Indian families reside there. Their choice to settle in this remote Utah town sparked curiosity, a reminder that stories and connections can be found in the most unexpected places.
The drive to Moab was efficient, punctuated by a 2.5-hour stop at Canyonlands National Park. The high speed limit on I-70 – a remarkable 80 MPH – made the miles melt away.
Returning to Canyonlands after decades evoked a wave of nostalgia. Memories of a 22-year-old adventurer in a trusty Subaru, venturing down unpaved roads to the canyon’s edge, contrasted sharply with the present, more cautious approach in a rented front-wheel-drive vehicle. While the off-road explorations were now off-limits, the panoramic views from the designated vista points remained as spectacular as ever, with the distant Rocky Mountains painting a breathtaking backdrop.
Canyonlands’ Islands in the Sky district offered a condensed yet impactful experience. Grand View Point Overlook, Green River Overlook, and Shafer Trail provided stunning photographic vantage points. A quick hike to Mesa Arch, a mere half-mile round trip, offered iconic views and a taste of the canyon’s hiking trails. Then, onward to Moab, a short 30-minute drive away, the anticipation for Arches National Park growing with each mile.
Arches Await: Where Stars and Stone Inspire
Moab welcomed us with the promise of Arches National Park, a place etched in memories from a 1986 high school trip. Recollections of backpacking in Escalante Canyon and Coyote Gulch, now part of the sadly diminished Escalante-Grand Staircase National Monument, highlighted the importance of preserving these natural treasures for future generations.
Personal memories intertwined with the landscape – a teenage heartbreak with a girlfriend who wanted prom over Utah, now a humorous anecdote decades later. Arches held a different kind of magic, a celestial allure. The night skies, free from light pollution, revealed the Milky Way in its full glory, satellites tracing silent paths across the star-studded canvas. This was a place where sensory experiences transcended the earthly, reaching for the cosmic.
The Holiday Inn Express and Suites in Moab offered modern comfort and convenience, a welcome respite after days of exploration. A prepaid room, IHG points accumulated, and a preference for a top-floor, quiet room were all seamlessly accommodated. Free WiFi, views of Moab’s rock formations and snow-capped Rockies, and an inviting outdoor pool added to the appeal. Hot tubs in the desert heat seemed less enticing, but the free breakfast buffet was a guaranteed morning perk.
Dinner recommendation led us to Antica Forma, an Italian restaurant with glowing Yelp reviews. Pizza and salad ordered for takeout seemed like the perfect way to unwind after a day of hiking. However, a credit card mishap at the restaurant, involving double charges and a frustratingly inept staff, slightly soured the experience. Despite the delicious, albeit overpriced and small portioned, food, the service left much to be desired. A mental note was made to dispute the charges, a minor inconvenience in the grand scheme of the journey.
A late-night swim for Owen, joined by local children, brought back the positive vibes. Earlier in the afternoon, a poolside encounter with a Venezuelan immigrant family sparked a meaningful conversation about community, responsibility, and the shared human experience, transcending borders and backgrounds. These unexpected connections, much like discovering the subtle “smell of ice cream” in the desert air, are often the most enriching aspects of travel.
Tomorrow’s plan: an early start, breakfast, takeout lunch from MoonFlower Community Cooperative, and Arches National Park before the desert heat intensifies.
Arches Under the Desert Sun: Hiking and Heavenly Views
Another night of deep sleep, nine hours of blissful rest, prepared us for another day of adventure. Breakfast at the Holiday Inn Express was followed by the essential morning ritual of coffee and sunscreen application. The desert sun was already asserting its strength, with temperatures climbing rapidly.
MoonFlower Community Cooperative in downtown Moab was the chosen source for pre-made sandwiches. A brief interaction with a checkout staff member with dreadlocks, who declared Moab “very progressive by Utah standards,” added a touch of local color. The sandwiches proved to be excellent, enjoyed in the car with the air conditioning on full blast after completing the 1.6-mile hike at Devil’s Garden.
The Devil’s Garden Trail led us to Pine Tree Arch, Tunnel Arch, and Landscape Arch. The sight of fellow hikers inexplicably clad in long pants and sleeves, some even in black shirts or flannel, was baffling in the scorching heat. Parasols, on the other hand, seemed like a sensible accessory. A chance meeting with Canadian travelers from Montreal offered an opportunity to share travel tips and a lighthearted joke about seeking refuge on their living room floor if political turmoil escalated back home.
On the way out of Arches, a series of viewpoints beckoned: Sand Dune Arch, Fiery Furnace, Delicate Arch, Panorama Point, Balanced Rock, and Garden of Eden. By this point, the temperature had soared to 106 degrees in the shade, and a half-gallon of water had been consumed. Retreat to the hotel was the only sensible option.
The afternoon was dedicated to escaping the heat – hotel room coolness and a refreshing swim in the pool. Slight dizziness upon returning to the room earlier was quickly remedied by submersion in the water, suggesting a mild case of heat exhaustion. A 45-minute swim, including a playful catch game with fellow guests, rejuvenated body and spirit.
Mexican food for dinner was the evening’s culinary craving, leading us to Miguel’s Baja Grill in downtown Moab. Authentic homemade Mexican cuisine, a vibrant ambiance, and both outdoor and comfortably warm indoor seating created a memorable dining experience. Chicken enchiladas with mole sauce, traditional beans and rice, and perfectly balanced spices delighted the palate. Moab’s earthy, politically progressive, and intellectual vibe resonated deeply, adding it to the list of potential future homes.
A sudden shift in weather – thunderstorms and wind – dashed hopes for night swimming and stargazing. However, dramatic lightning strikes captured on iPhone slow-motion video and stunning double rainbows provided a different kind of spectacle.
Part eight of the journey concluded, with anticipation building for part nine and the road to Mesa Verde and Cortez, Colorado. The journey continues, with each day offering new sensory experiences, new discoveries, and new opportunities to appreciate the subtle beauty of the world, learning, in a way, to “smell ice cream” in every unique landscape.
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